Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Azores

Ponta Delgada,  São Miguel,  Azores

Stop one on our 16 day TransAtlantic Cruise.

 

We made landfall at 8 a.m and although the weather was breezy and cool, the entire island was socked in dense fog.  Taking a moment to get our land legs after 8 days at sea, we disembark. Boarding the bus, we knew our excursion would not provide the beautiful scenery we had hoped for. However, travelers know that the weather is something you can do nothing about and just have to accept. We travel through the city of Ponta Delgada heading for the mountains.

Ponta Delgada is a city on the largest island of São Miguel in the archipelago of the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal. It includes 44,403 residents in the urban area, and approximately 20,113 inhabitants.

Since its discovery in the early 15th century, the Portuguese Azores have played an important part in oceanic navigation. The Azores were a logistical point for the discovery of new worlds, a port of call for ships engaged in trade between Europe, America and India, and a place to lay anchor for the galleons bringing the wealth of the Americas back to the old world.

The charm of the Azores , in particular the countryside, is a result of its extraordinary diversity; the joy of the perfect land, sea and sky, in a constant game of colors and variety. The islands are covered with a combination of forest laurel and juniper, hedgerows of hydrangeas, lush green fields and vividly colored flowers. I only wish the fog would have lifted so that we could have experienced it in all of its glory!

Ponta Delgada covers a volcanic area composed of two structures: the Picos Region and Sete Cidades Massif. The Sete Cidades Massif makes up the municipality of Ponta Delgada, consists of a central volcanic caldera and lake-filled cones which surround the crater. It occupies the extreme western part of the island with many regional radial fractures marked by lava domes and spatter cones. The Sete Cidades Volcano at the center of the Massif consists of a caldera  that includes four lakes (two of which Lagoa Azul, the Blue Lake, and Lagoa Verde, the Green Lake, are linked). The caldera is almost circular.

We visit the caldera, but alas the fog is too thick to see much.

Our first stop is a small village.
Sete Cidades is a civil parish in the center of the municipality of Ponta Delgada, that is located in the center of a massive volcanic crater three miles across, also referred to as Sete Cidades.

 

A bridge links Sete Cidades to access to Ponta Delgada, and a bridge divides the two lakes.

We attempt to see the lakes one more time before returning to Ponta Delgada. No improvement, I guess we will just have to return to the Azores again to see the beautiful scenery.

Foggy tour over,  we now stop to experience the Wine and Cheese of the Azores. Our disappointment with the fog soon disappears at the sight of the wonderful fare before us.  We were surprised to learn of the Azores/Canada link!

For several decades the Portuguese Cheese Company has been providing quality artisanal cheeses to the Portuguese population of Southern Ontario. In 1999, the DeMelo family purchased the company and have made a concerted effort to promote and market these delicious specialty cheeses to a wider audience.

Portuguese Cheese Company has been dedicated to the art, craft and tradition of fine cheese making. Cheeses are made with fresh Canadian ingredients while their flavours still evoke old world traditions. Hence our slogan, Portuguese Cheese with a Canadian Accent.
We were offered  a wide range of cheeses to suit every occasion from fresh cheese for simply appetizers to robust, well-aged cheese to flavour an entrée or a luxuriously creamy cheese for dessert. Wonderful tastes and textures made here and enjoyed everywhere.
My favorite was (Saint George)-St. Jorge,  a popular Portuguese classic with roots dating back to the 15th century. This distinctive raw cow's milk cheese is aged a minimum of 3 to 5 months. The firm, smooth texture and aromatic smell tempt you to enjoy the authentic bold flavour.
Rennet free, St. John's Fresh Goat's Cheese is perfect for vegetarian dietary regimes for all meals. This fresh, soft cheese made from 100% goat's (cabra) milk is a delectable Portuguese favourite and unlike any cheese you have ever tried, with its soft, yogurt-like texture, delicate curd and sweet milk flavour.

Grapes were first grown in this area more than 400 years ago when vines of the verdelho grape were introduced from Sicily.

The wines of the Azores are extremely drinkable, but because relatively little is produced almost none are exported. The choice is not extensive, but for a pleasant local wine, we tried Terras de Lava, a white, slightly fruity, table wine,  a light red wine called Basalto, my favorite and Cavaco, a range that includes both red and white wines. The Azores boasts that the best that is produced here is Lajido, a fortified wine similar to white port which is served chilled as an aperitif, although, unlike its better-known counterpart, it is not found outside its native area. Lajido is made from verdelho grapes which have been cultivated very successfully on the island of Pico since the vines were first planted there in the 16th century. Back then, grapes were even sold to the English royal family and the Russian Tsars. I personally didn’t care for it but I am definitely not a wine connoisseur.  Anyone with a sweeter tooth should look out for Angelica, a richer drink sometimes served before a meal but perhaps more suitable as a dessert wine.

Full and a little light headed we walk into town for a walking tour of the city.

The Church of Sao Jose, a historical landmark in Ponta Delgada is also a good place to visit. It is in the center of the city. If you are interested in history, you may also want to pay a visit to the Carlos Machado Museum.

Ponta delgada also had many local civilians making handmade crafts that are sold on the street and in small markets and boutiques by the main avenue.

The most common souvenirs for tourist are scrimshaw, wicker products, lace, embroderies, liqueurs, and flags. Many people find small ceramic bowls or plates, woven jewelry, and many other items that are specially hand made and one of a kind.

 

 

The main entry point is João Paul II (Nordela) International Airport (PDL/LPPD) which handles domestic/regional traffic to São Miguel island, as well as international flights from Europe and North America. Although several European and North American carriers fly to São Miguel, SATA International and TAP Air Portugal are the primary Portuguese air carriers serving the island.

In addition, several cruise lines make Ponta Delgada a waypoint when journeying across the Atlantic.