Ponta Delgada, São
Miguel, Azores
Stop one on our 16 day TransAtlantic Cruise.
We made landfall at 8 a.m and although the weather was
breezy and cool, the entire island was socked in dense fog.
Taking a moment to get our land legs after 8
days at sea, we disembark. Boarding the bus, we knew our excursion would not
provide the beautiful scenery we had hoped for. However, travelers know that
the weather is something you can do nothing about and just have to accept. We
travel through the city of Ponta Delgada heading for the mountains.
Ponta Delgada is a city on the largest island of São Miguel
in the archipelago of the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal. It includes
44,403 residents in the urban area, and approximately 20,113 inhabitants.
Since its discovery in the early 15th century, the
Portuguese Azores have played an important part in oceanic navigation. The
Azores were a logistical point for the discovery of new worlds, a port of call
for ships engaged in trade between Europe, America and India, and a place to
lay anchor for the galleons bringing the wealth of the Americas back to the old
world.
The charm of the Azores , in particular the countryside, is
a result of its extraordinary diversity; the joy of the perfect land, sea and
sky, in a constant game of colors and variety. The islands are covered with a
combination of forest laurel and juniper, hedgerows of hydrangeas, lush green
fields and vividly colored flowers. I only wish the fog would have lifted so
that we could have experienced it in all of its glory!
Ponta Delgada covers a volcanic area composed of two
structures: the Picos Region and Sete Cidades Massif. The Sete Cidades Massif
makes up the municipality of Ponta Delgada, consists of a central volcanic
caldera and lake-filled cones which surround the crater. It occupies the extreme
western part of the island with many regional radial fractures marked by lava
domes and spatter cones. The Sete Cidades Volcano at the center of the Massif
consists of a caldera
that includes four
lakes (two of which Lagoa Azul, the Blue Lake, and Lagoa Verde, the Green Lake,
are linked). The caldera is almost circular.
We visit the caldera, but alas the fog is too thick to see
much.
Our first stop is a small village.
Sete Cidades is a civil
parish in the center of the municipality of Ponta Delgada, that is located in
the center of a massive volcanic crater three miles across, also referred to as
Sete Cidades.
A bridge links Sete Cidades to access to Ponta Delgada, and a
bridge divides the two lakes.
We attempt to see the lakes one more time before returning
to Ponta Delgada. No improvement, I guess we will just have to return to the
Azores again to see the beautiful scenery.
Foggy tour over, we
now stop to experience the Wine and Cheese of the Azores. Our disappointment with
the fog soon disappears at the sight of the wonderful fare before us. We were surprised to learn of the
Azores/Canada link!
For several decades the Portuguese Cheese Company has been
providing quality artisanal cheeses to the Portuguese population of Southern
Ontario. In 1999, the DeMelo family purchased the company and have made a
concerted effort to promote and market these delicious specialty cheeses to a
wider audience.
Portuguese Cheese Company has been dedicated to the art,
craft and tradition of fine cheese making. Cheeses are made with fresh Canadian
ingredients while their flavours still evoke old world traditions. Hence our
slogan,
Portuguese Cheese with a
Canadian Accent.
We were offered
a
wide range of cheeses to suit every occasion from fresh cheese for simply
appetizers to robust, well-aged cheese to flavour an entrée or a luxuriously
creamy cheese for dessert. Wonderful tastes and textures made here and enjoyed
everywhere.
My favorite was (Saint George)-St. Jorge,
a popular Portuguese classic with roots dating
back to the 15th century. This distinctive raw cow's milk cheese is aged a
minimum of 3 to 5 months. The firm, smooth texture and aromatic smell tempt you
to enjoy the authentic bold flavour.
Rennet free, St. John's Fresh Goat's Cheese is perfect for
vegetarian dietary regimes for all meals. This fresh, soft cheese made from
100% goat's (cabra) milk is a delectable Portuguese favourite and unlike any
cheese you have ever tried, with its soft, yogurt-like texture, delicate curd
and sweet milk flavour.
Grapes were first grown in this area more than 400 years ago
when vines of the verdelho grape were introduced from Sicily.
The wines of the Azores are extremely drinkable, but because
relatively little is produced almost none are exported. The choice is not
extensive, but for a pleasant local wine, we tried Terras de Lava, a white,
slightly fruity, table wine, a light red
wine called Basalto, my favorite and Cavaco, a range that includes both red and
white wines. The Azores boasts that the best that is produced here is Lajido, a
fortified wine similar to white port which is served chilled as an aperitif,
although, unlike its better-known counterpart, it is not found outside its
native area. Lajido is made from verdelho grapes which have been cultivated
very successfully on the island of Pico since the vines were first planted
there in the 16th century. Back then, grapes were even sold to the English
royal family and the Russian Tsars. I personally didn’t care for it but I am
definitely not a wine connoisseur. Anyone
with a sweeter tooth should look out for Angelica, a richer drink sometimes
served before a meal but perhaps more suitable as a dessert wine.
Full and a little light headed we walk into town for a
walking tour of the city.
The Church of Sao Jose, a historical landmark in Ponta
Delgada is also a good place to visit. It is in the center of the city. If you
are interested in history, you may also want to pay a visit to the Carlos
Machado Museum.
Ponta delgada also had many local civilians making handmade
crafts that are sold on the street and in small markets and boutiques by the
main avenue.
The most common souvenirs for tourist are scrimshaw, wicker
products, lace, embroderies, liqueurs, and flags. Many people find small
ceramic bowls or plates, woven jewelry, and many other items that are specially
hand made and one of a kind.
The main entry point is João Paul II (Nordela) International
Airport (PDL/LPPD) which handles domestic/regional traffic to São Miguel island,
as well as international flights from Europe and North America. Although
several European and North American carriers fly to São Miguel, SATA
International and TAP Air Portugal are the primary Portuguese air carriers
serving the island.
In addition, several cruise lines make Ponta Delgada a
waypoint when journeying across the Atlantic.
